How to Clean Gold Jewelry Safely

The safest way to clean solid gold jewelry at home is a short soak in warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap, a gentle scrub with a very soft brush, a rinse in clean water and a dry with a lint-free cloth. That is the same method the Gemological Institute of America recommends for most jewelry. The first step is knowing what you actually own, because gold-plated, vermeil and gold-filled pieces cannot take the same treatment as solid karat gold, and some gemstones set in gold, including pearls, opals and emeralds, can be damaged by methods that are fine for the metal.

This guide covers how to tell what kind of gold you have, the step-by-step method, which stones change the rules, which household products and habits damage gold, how often to clean, and when to take a piece to a jeweler. It does not cover testing whether gold is real, which our guide "How to Tell If Gold Is Real" handles, or what plated and filled pieces are made of, which "Gold Filled vs Gold Plated: What You're Buying" explains.

First, what kind of gold is it?

The cleaning method depends on how much gold the piece contains and where it sits.

Solid karat gold. The whole piece is a gold alloy, stamped 10K, 14K, 18K or similar. Pure 24-karat gold is soft and non-reactive, so jewelry is almost always made from gold mixed with other metals such as copper, silver or nickel for strength and color. Solid gold can stand up to gentle soap-and-water cleaning, and a scratch or a tarnish is not going to wear through to something else.

Gold plated. A thin layer of gold sits over a base metal. Because the gold is only at the surface, friction, chemicals, moisture and aggressive cleaning can wear it away, exposing the metal underneath. Plated jewelry needs the gentlest handling.

Vermeil. A layer of gold over sterling silver. It behaves like plated jewelry in practice, with a silver base that can tarnish if the gold wears through. Jewelers that sell vermeil warn against polishing cloths made for silver, which can remove the coating.

Gold filled. A thicker layer of gold bonded to a base metal. It is more durable than plating, but it is still not solid gold, so treat it carefully and avoid abrasives.

If you are unsure, look for a karat stamp such as 14K, check inside bands and on clasps for markings, and see our guides above. When you are not certain, use the gentler plated method. It will not hurt solid gold.

What you need

• A small bowl
• Warm, not hot, water
• Mild dish soap, free of added moisturizers, abrasives or bleach
• A very soft toothbrush, a soft-bristled baby brush or a clean makeup brush
• A second bowl or glass of clean water for rinsing
• A soft, lint-free cloth
• A towel to work over, so a dropped stone or earring back does not disappear

Step by step: solid gold without delicate stones

1. Check the piece first. Look for loose stones, bent prongs, worn clasps and cracked settings. If something wobbles, do not soak or scrub it. Take it to a jeweler.
2. Mix the soak. Add a few drops of mild dish soap to a bowl of warm water. Warm water loosens oils and lotion. Hot water is unnecessary and can be hard on some settings.
3. Soak for 10 to 15 minutes. Soaking dissolves most of the film of skin oil, soap, hairspray and lotion that dulls gold.
4. Brush gently. Use the very soft brush on the areas behind stones, around prongs and in engraving, where grime collects. Work with light pressure. Gold is soft enough to scratch.
5. Rinse thoroughly. GIA's advice is to rinse in a glass or bowl of clean water, not directly under the faucet. Rinsing over an open drain risks losing a stone or the whole piece. Soap left behind creates a new film.
6. Dry completely. Pat dry with a soft, lint-free cloth. Let it air dry for a few minutes on the cloth before storing it.
7. Buff lightly. If you want shine, a clean, dry, soft cloth will bring up the luster of solid gold. For plated and vermeil, skip the polishing cloth.

For chains, cleaning is easier if you soak, brush the links gently with the toothbrush and rinse. If the chain is tangled, work out knots with a pin while it is wet and soapy, not with force.

Step by step: plated, vermeil and gold filled

The principle is less contact, less time, less friction.

1. Skip the long soak. Use a soft cloth, slightly dampened with lukewarm water and a trace of mild soap, to wipe away surface residue.
2. Wipe with a second cloth dampened with clean water to remove any soap.
3. Dry immediately and fully with a soft cloth.
4. Do not use polishing cloths, silver cloths, toothpaste, baking soda, rubbing alcohol or a stiff brush. They are abrasive or chemical enough to rub the gold layer off.
5. Do not scrub. If a plated piece has begun to show base metal through the surface, cleaning will not restore the gold. Re-plating is a job for a jeweler.

Stones that change the rules

Many pieces of gold jewelry carry gemstones, and the stone, not the metal, often dictates the cleaning method. The details below come from GIA's care guides for each gem.

### Pearls

Pearls are very soft, rated about 2.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, and easily scratched. GIA says pearls should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Chemicals and acids harm them, including hair spray, perfume, cosmetics and even perspiration. Wipe pearls with a soft, clean cloth after each wearing, and use warm, soapy water only for an occasional, thorough cleaning. Do not soak a strand, since the string can weaken, and make sure strung pearls are completely dry before you wear them. Gold clasps and mountings should be cleaned separately, without wetting the pearls.

### Opals

Opal is a softer gem that is vulnerable to heat, sudden temperature changes and chemicals. GIA states that the only safe way to clean opal is with warm, soapy water. Opals are often treated with oil, wax or plastic, and intense heat can cause fracture lines called crazing. Do not use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, avoid harsh chemicals, and do not leave opal jewelry in a hot place.

### Emeralds

GIA notes that the great majority of fashioned natural emeralds contain fractures that have been filled with oils, resins or polymers. Ultrasonic vibrations can weaken already-fractured stones, and hot steam can cause oil or unhardened resin to sweat out. Warm, soapy water and gentle scrubbing is the safest approach. That same logic applies to other stones with fractures or fillings.

### Other stones

As a rule, the safer course with any colored stone you cannot identify is the simple soap-and-water method with a soft brush, and no ultrasonic or steam. Glued stones, stones in delicate or antique settings, treated stones and anything with visible cracks can be damaged by machines that are routine for diamonds set in sturdy mountings. Diamonds in solid gold are the least fussy, but even there loose prongs make machines a risk. If you are not sure what a stone is, ask a jeweler before using any machine.

Ultrasonic and steam cleaners

Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are used by jewelers and sold for home use. They are useful on durable stones in secure settings and risky on almost everything else.

Do not put these in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner:

• Pearls, opals and emeralds, for the reasons above
• Plated, vermeil or gold-filled pieces, since vibration and cleaning solutions can wear down the coating
• Any piece with glued stones, loose stones or loose prongs
• Antique or fragile settings
• Any stone with visible fractures or inclusions that you cannot identify

If you use a home unit on a sturdy solid-gold piece with durable stones, follow the manufacturer's instructions, use only the solution it specifies and keep the time short. When in doubt, soap, a soft brush and a rinse will clean most pieces nearly as well.

What damages gold

Pure gold does not corrode, but gold jewelry is not pure gold, and a few common habits do real harm.

• Chlorine and bleach. Chlorine reacts with the copper and nickel in karat gold alloys, weakening the metal and the solder joints that hold a piece together. The damage is cumulative and can be invisible at first, then show up as pitting, a broken prong or a snapped shank. Pools and hot tubs are the usual culprits, and hot tubs tend to have higher chlorine levels and warmer water, which speeds the reaction. Household bleach is stronger still. Take rings and chains off before swimming and before cleaning with bleach-based products.
• Toothpaste and abrasive powders. They scratch gold, which is a soft metal, and can dull the finish. They are especially bad for plating.
• Harsh household cleaners and ammonia. They can discolor or dull some finishes, and they harm some stones.
• Stiff brushes and rough cloths. Gold scratches easily, and plating wears off with friction.
• Lotions, hairspray, perfume and cosmetics. They leave a film that dulls gold, and several of them damage pearls and other soft stones. Put jewelry on last and take it off first.
• Rough wear. Gym equipment, gardening and heavy cleaning put soft gold in contact with hard objects. Gold bends and scratches.
• Storing pieces together. Jewelry knocked together scratches. Keep pieces separate in soft pouches or lined compartments.

How often to clean

How often depends on how often you wear it. A ring worn daily collects skin oil, soap and lotion and can use a quick soak every week or two. Earrings and pendants worn less often can go longer. Pieces stored in a drawer need a wipe before wear, not a full routine. A good habit for all gold is to wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing, which removes oils before they build up and cuts down how often you need a full clean.

When to go to a jeweler

Take a piece to a jeweler when:

• A stone is loose, a prong is bent or a clasp is weak
• A piece is badly tarnished, discolored or has dark spots that soap does not shift
• Plating has worn through
• The piece has pearls, opals or emeralds and has not been cleaned in a long time, or has been damaged
• It is an antique, a family piece or a high-value item
• You see pitting, cracks or rough areas on the metal, which can be signs of chemical damage

A jeweler can also check settings and clasps. It is a good idea to have rings and valuable pieces looked over periodically, since small problems in a setting are cheap to fix and expensive to ignore.

Cleaning gold before you sell

If you plan to sell, a gentle clean helps the piece photograph and show well. Do not over-polish, strip patina from an antique or use abrasives. A scratched or damaged finish matters less than a misdescribed piece, so be honest about wear, repairs and what the item is. Live selling lets buyers ask to see markings, clasps, settings and wear on camera. On ShopBidz, DeJesusTreasures, from Wallingford, Connecticut, sells handbags, jewelry and accessories, and GG Luxury Revival (GG Luxury Revival LLC), from Long Island, New York, sells luxury items and jewelry. Both are sellers you can watch live and ask about a piece before you bid.

Bottom line

For solid gold with no delicate stones, a warm, soapy soak, a gentle scrub with a very soft brush, a rinse in clean water and a lint-free dry is all it needs. Plated, vermeil and gold-filled pieces should only be wiped, never soaked or scrubbed, and never touched with polishing cloths or abrasives. Pearls, opals and emeralds rule out ultrasonic and steam cleaning, and call for gentle wiping or warm, soapy water only. Keep gold away from chlorine and bleach, and take anything loose, valuable, antique or worn through to a jeweler.